8-20-06
Explored the Kilmainham Gaol (jail) highly recommended by locasl and travel guides alike. Filled with history, it is a step into the past and reminded me somewhat of Alcatraz. Established in 1796, over time it was intended to reform the way prisoners were, well, reformed, with the idea that individual cells, reasonable food and less mayhem were condusive to the cause. In point of fact, it at one point housed 9000 versus the 100 it was originally intended for (at the height of the potato famine, when food options were better in prison than out), and the stories evolve from there, e.g., one woman, assistant to a rebellion leader, was held for 2-1/2 years without being allowed to see daylight, emerged nearly blind and was set free ultimately to die penniless, having never betrayed her employer. The youngest to be held there was 6 years old (for stealing food).

The gaol represents a significant part of Ireland's history; leaders of 5 Irish rebellions were incarcerated there, with many executed there as well, including the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rebellion. The domed interior picture shown here gives the feeling of openess and air, but several of the cells front on dark gloomy corridors with little light. The carved dragons in chains are above the main entrance, immediately below where hangings occurred for public vieweing in the 1800's. An intriguing and sobering space well worth the visit and touch with history...

My jaunt through the grounds of the Ireland Museum of Modern Art enroute to the gaol was rewarded with outdoor sculpture, beautifully kept gadens, and a long promenade with historic cemeteries flanking the walkway at one end. City sounds are muffled here, and the area is a cross section of walkers, cyclists, tourists and the inbetween folk like me....

Last stop was Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin's oldest building and still an active presence today. Tours are self guided, with a multitude of treasures, both real (gold) and historical. Its medieval crypt dating from the eleventh century extends underneath the entire cathedral (the largest in the UK or Ireland), its forrest of rough hewn stone pillars support the upper church structure and nowadays provide a place to exhibit aritifacts and the treasures gifted to the cathedral over the centuries.

The sanctuary contains several memorials of historic import throughout, e.g., the tomb of Strongbow, leader of the Normans who captured Dublin in 1170 lies next to regular seating at one side of the sanctuary), the medieval reliquary said to contain the heart of Dublin patron saint St. Laurence O'Toole in an alcove fronted by kneelers on one end, and others, all part of the "everyday" flow of the interior.

The acoustics are grand; a choir of just 24 sang the Sunday evensong service that I had the opportunity to experience, and their voices resonated through the vaulted sanctuary perfectly...gave rise to goosebumps....would be a fabulous place to hear Handel's Messiah. The organ is enormous, pipes extending 4 stories high or better. The cathedral is a state of continual restoration, maintaining the original look right down to the tiles on the floor. An audiovisual feast inside and out, and moving to see in its operational antiquity.
Ending the day on a completely different note, hopped over to Burdock's, a tiny "to go" establishment and ostensibly makers of the best fish and chips in the universe (just ask 'em!). Checking out this claim produced one enormous "fish" (a full cod fillet) combined with enough "chips" (fries) to genuinely feed 2-3 people. Dinner, anyone?

A mere sampling of the solid 400 photos taken to date appear here...loving the freedom of a digital camera, and enjoying the opportunity to share a tiny slice of its "magic"!

8-19-06
Off on a mission for a hair dryer of all things (my blow dryer from the states kept blowing the fuse in my converter), a nifty "excuse" for a scavenger hunt of sorts while testing bus routes and shopping areas to see what's around/available; located things is not always an easy or obvious task relative to teh convenience we craete for ourselvs in the states. It was an interesting exercise in finding things and observing more of the immediate area I live in. The malls I've seen thus far are almost exclusively shoes and clothes, with very little in the way of books, gadgets, gifts, etc.

Moral? Way more fun to noodle and shop the little stores and markets than march through the mall (much like there, at least for me!), though in this case the desired item could only be found in a major appliance store near the mall.