Belfast

8-15-06 thru 8-19-06

Tuesday...A morning of meetings and contacting folks for bids, followed by a bus trip to Belfast, my first real trip beyond the extensive Dublin area since arriving. Beautiful low rolling hills in a patchwork of farm and pastureland, each field separated by hedges, gates, and the occasional fence, and many dotted with sheep, horses, and cows. Pastoral, restful, and lovely.

Wednesday...Connected with HFH folks to go over plans for my project and be introduced to HFH the Northern Ireland way. I had the opportunity to see two completed developments, and to work a site currently in its finishing stages.

Their way of constructing homes has developed into a kit style approach by construction manager Vernon TooGood (and he is!), something like the project in the states for some of the HFH work done post Katrina, and very efficient in cost and construction terms. Framing is done in sections in a shop area beneath the HFH offices, training volunteers as they go. The kitted walls, door frames, porch fittings, and other “smaller” sections are loaded/unloaded by volunteers, taken to the designated site on trailers. The homes are assembled in a blitz-build type style to dried in, and finished from there.

They are built as duplexes (or double bungalows), with each home more or less a mirror image of its counterpart. All are designed with two bedrooms, living room, kitchen and full bath on the ground floor, with the capacity for an additional two bedrooms and bath with shower in the “attic” space, depending on the size of the applicant family (their roof trusses are about twice as heavy as ours to support this concept, and are lifted by crane for installation. Regardless of family size, all attic spaces have windows, basic framing, plumbing and electric (“sparks”) installed so they can be expanded as smaller families grow, and/or completed as 4 bedroom homes for larger families applying.

Exteriors are brick faces all the way around, with small front porches and a concrete slab running the rear length of the house with wheelchair ramp/access (now a requirement regardless of family need in Northern Ireland). Outlets and switches are raised/lowered respectively as well to meet handicapped requirements. Roofing is interlocking clay tiles, hung from wood battens and nailed every third or fourth row; the weight of the tiles holds the roof in place (pictured here is one side, up to the center downspout).

Kitchens are fitted with refrigerator, washer and range hood as donated by Whirlpool Europe, and the homeowner purchases their own stove. Heat is via individual radiators and reminds me a bit of the Cadet system we’ve used in Kitsap County. Lighting is installed in the form of one center ceiling connect per room that accepts a light bulb; the decorative fixtures are left to the homeowner, as is flooring and painting. Molding and trim pieces are only partially nailed to allow easy removal for painting or sealing by the homeowner.

Yard or “garden” areas are fenced and topsoil laid, driveways are paved. The results are solid, versatile, low cost yet beautiful homes. Very cool.

and Thursday...I spent 1-1/2 days on site, helping with digging and setting fence posts, raking out and leveling yard space, and generally learning more about their construction methods and running a site Ireland style. Learned to use a jackhammer while there, and enjoyed some friendly ribbing and joking as well. Some things are universal, yes? Great fun, much learned, and hoping to take them up on the invite to come up for a blitz in late September as our Dublin project allows. Again I say, cool!
Friday....Amazing to take a tour in an open air bus where as little as a year ago (in some areas) they shared it would have been unheard of due to the “Troubles”. Sobering to experience in real-time a myriad of places we have seen via media in far fiercer force and contexts in months and years past. Old hat for those of you who’ve traveled extensively, new for me….and I look forward to continuing. History come alive, for sure, and a great way to learn it. Belfast combines a plethora of quirky, conflicting, and cohesive panoramas and stories to share (much like any other city....just beginning to "get acquainted" with this one!).

Speaking of history, the birthplace of the Titanic is there, with plans to develop a full size replica now in the works, a significant shift from embarrassment at the loss of the ship to realizing its potential both in education and tourism. A somewhat lighter sign of changing times and views.

More on the troubles...Worked with an elderly gent on site in Belfast who commented that unlike our “troubles” with civil rights, knowing who is who in Belfast isn’t nearly so black and white (no pun intended)…religious and political affiliations are less "easily" discerned, and potentially volatile "ingredients" lie in close proximity to one another. One side of a roundabout will be Catholic, another Protestant…one street Catholic and the next Protestant, and so on, and often perspectives are presented this way, sometimes suggesting the misconception that the troubles are religiously rather than politically based…as it happens the bulk of the Unionist faction is Protestant, the bulk of the Nationalists, Catholic, and so it goes. Gates and barbed wire still separate several communities because of differing political views, and are locked at night and on weekends and holidays.

The first HFH build here helped open another small doorway/perspective, with Protestants and Catholics working together in new ways. Small forward steps. It’s the little things….or perhaps the big ones. Places in the city proper previously heavily bombed are being rebuilt with glassed fronts and modern construction, another sign of a more peaceful clime and city growing its way forward. Deeply affected by trying this all on live and in person, if only for a moment in time....can you tell?


Murals abound, illustrating historic dates, political points of view, sports, and more. There is even one featuring President Bush, in a respectful albeit less than favorable light. Heckling continues on select street corners and pivotal areas from time to time, and many opt to hold fast in their respective corners at nightfall. With HFH, the first build opened another small doorway here, with Protestants and Catholics working together in new ways. Small steps, forward steps. It’s the little things, and all that said, the city is a beautiful, thriving and enticing place to visit, learn and shop. I'll be back...


Saturday...And on we go. Encouraging to hear that planning for my project is where it should be based on the info I could share with the Belfast folks, and wonderful to have them as “back pocket” coaches/resources going into it! Catching up here and on several other fronts today, as I ponder what adventure to pursue next....

8-20-06
Explored the Kilmainham Gaol (jail) highly recommended by locasl and travel guides alike. Filled with history, it is a step into the past and reminded me somewhat of Alcatraz. Established in 1796, over time it was intended to reform the way prisoners were, well, reformed, with the idea that individual cells, reasonable food and less mayhem were condusive to the cause. In point of fact, it at one point housed 9000 versus the 100 it was originally intended for (at the height of the potato famine, when food options were better in prison than out), and the stories evolve from there, e.g., one woman, assistant to a rebellion leader, was held for 2-1/2 years without being allowed to see daylight, emerged nearly blind and was set free ultimately to die penniless, having never betrayed her employer. The youngest to be held there was 6 years old (for stealing food).

The gaol represents a significant part of Ireland's history; leaders of 5 Irish rebellions were incarcerated there, with many executed there as well, including the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rebellion. The domed interior picture shown here gives the feeling of openess and air, but several of the cells front on dark gloomy corridors with little light. The carved dragons in chains are above the main entrance, immediately below where hangings occurred for public vieweing in the 1800's. An intriguing and sobering space well worth the visit and touch with history...

My jaunt through the grounds of the Ireland Museum of Modern Art enroute to the gaol was rewarded with outdoor sculpture, beautifully kept gadens, and a long promenade with historic cemeteries flanking the walkway at one end. City sounds are muffled here, and the area is a cross section of walkers, cyclists, tourists and the inbetween folk like me....

Last stop was Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin's oldest building and still an active presence today. Tours are self guided, with a multitude of treasures, both real (gold) and historical. Its medieval crypt dating from the eleventh century extends underneath the entire cathedral (the largest in the UK or Ireland), its forrest of rough hewn stone pillars support the upper church structure and nowadays provide a place to exhibit aritifacts and the treasures gifted to the cathedral over the centuries.

The sanctuary contains several memorials of historic import throughout, e.g., the tomb of Strongbow, leader of the Normans who captured Dublin in 1170 lies next to regular seating at one side of the sanctuary), the medieval reliquary said to contain the heart of Dublin patron saint St. Laurence O'Toole in an alcove fronted by kneelers on one end, and others, all part of the "everyday" flow of the interior.

The acoustics are grand; a choir of just 24 sang the Sunday evensong service that I had the opportunity to experience, and their voices resonated through the vaulted sanctuary perfectly...gave rise to goosebumps....would be a fabulous place to hear Handel's Messiah. The organ is enormous, pipes extending 4 stories high or better. The cathedral is a state of continual restoration, maintaining the original look right down to the tiles on the floor. An audiovisual feast inside and out, and moving to see in its operational antiquity.
Ending the day on a completely different note, hopped over to Burdock's, a tiny "to go" establishment and ostensibly makers of the best fish and chips in the universe (just ask 'em!). Checking out this claim produced one enormous "fish" (a full cod fillet) combined with enough "chips" (fries) to genuinely feed 2-3 people. Dinner, anyone?

A mere sampling of the solid 400 photos taken to date appear here...loving the freedom of a digital camera, and enjoying the opportunity to share a tiny slice of its "magic"!

8-19-06
Off on a mission for a hair dryer of all things (my blow dryer from the states kept blowing the fuse in my converter), a nifty "excuse" for a scavenger hunt of sorts while testing bus routes and shopping areas to see what's around/available; located things is not always an easy or obvious task relative to teh convenience we craete for ourselvs in the states. It was an interesting exercise in finding things and observing more of the immediate area I live in. The malls I've seen thus far are almost exclusively shoes and clothes, with very little in the way of books, gadgets, gifts, etc.

Moral? Way more fun to noodle and shop the little stores and markets than march through the mall (much like there, at least for me!), though in this case the desired item could only be found in a major appliance store near the mall.

Work week in review

8-15 thru 8-18-06
A variety of tasks and excursions fill each day, among them creating a master schedule of activites for the project I'll be leading here, determining volunteer/tool/contractor and other needs and resources for same. Seemingly straightforward, yet no end of amusing (and sometimes challenging) as I encounter new terminology, ways of building, and seek resources.

Delighted to discover B&Q, a "Builders Square/Home Depot/Lowes" type store that encompasses several of the basics in one area (read tools, supplies. etc)...it's the little things. There are several individualized vendors, but only a couple that have hte majority of what we need in one spot. Everything is done by estimates (3 written estimates required before every major purchase), so will be nice to have a familiar frame of reference to work with.

Had an opportunity to see the project site itself for the first time, though only from the outside; inside access is on hold while locks and doors are reworked for security reasons. To start, need to set up installation of a security alarm and 8' high "hoarding" around the perimiter of the yard for safety/security of HFH staff and volunteers (rough neighborhood....will be traveling in pairs ala Noah )...very different from build sites at home.

A note on the office: On site at Linders Lotus dealership, at half four (4:30 p.m.) each day, a horse and buggy passes by, interesting juxtaposition of old and new!

Take a walk with me...with a sampling of what I see om my way to the Habitat office. Cars park on sidewalks or tiny front yard areas, and security is tantamount, with steering wheels locked, gates and gardens locked, and many with alarm systems installed...

...a small river accompanies the stroll, along with a local golf course....and gaggle of small dinghies..

....(traffic, buses, and city streets excluded from imagery : )

8-14-06
First HFH workday here, clearing the "garden" or yard areas of three homes (one shown here) dedicated earlier this year. Perfect overcast and slightly cool day for rototilling, raking, leveling, and "unplanting" a plethora of rock, roots, weeds and debris to make way for grass seed this fall when rain is steadier. An "instant" gratification project in that all three yards plus a bit more were accomplished that day. YAY!

Aside: I understand what they mean by the phrase "four seasons in a day" here....you never know what's in store in temperature or precipitation, so I rarely go out without my "Indiana Jones" wool rain hat and a damp proof jacket! 

8-12-06
Took the Dublin City Bus tour with Jessica, another HFH international volunteer here to get a feel for the city, major points of interest and how to find ‘em. So much to see!Of the 21 stops cited, we opted for Trintity College and The Book of Kells, a stunningly rendered 1000+ year old Latin version of the four gospels. Much history is presented as an integral part of the exhibit (Irish, world, and religious), and the books themselves are breathtaking. Written on vellum with incredibly tiny and detailed illustrations, and perfect script. No pix allowed, but you can get a feel for it at http://www.fontcraft.com/artype/kells/ and http://www.tcd.ie/Library/heritage/kells.php. Impressive in and of itself (would HIGHLY recommend seeing it). The Book of Kells exhibit “ends” in the Trinity College library’s “Long Room”. The room is huge, spanning 65 meters and home to 200,000 volumes of the college’s oldest tomes, as well as busts of several well known scholars and historic figures. The oldest harp in Ireland is also displayed there, dating from the 15th century, significant in that it is this harp that is depicted on Irish coins. Legend has it that it belonged to high king of Ireland Brian Boru (d.1014). Again, no pix allowed, so here you go: http://www.tcd.ie/Library/heritage/longroom.php.

Next stop was the National Gallery of Ireland for lunch and a look at Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ. Rembrandt, Picasso, Monet and others works are housed here as well. The Gallery (or more accurately, 54 galleries comprising one whole) is open seven days a wekk and admission is free, making it a fine arts/creative visual feast readily available to all, as are several other of the museums and libraries here. Very cool.
Then to Dublin Castle, where concerts and other events are often held in an adjacent center court, huge sand sculptures on this particular day. We opted to tour the interior another day, and headed next door to the Chester Beatty Library, housing phenomenal collections of cultural and religious manuscripts, texts, prints and artwork from around the world. The Sacred Traditions Gallery is dedicated to all the great religions of the world….all one….imagine….Other collections capture creative expreession from 2700 BC to the present. The library and contents were collected primarily by Beatty and his wife over their lifetimes and bequeathed to the public via trust his death, and are available to researchers and students worldwide….and of course, accessible to the public for viewing. Unbelievable exhibits, and stirred up the artist and student in me…even teased awake the interest in this non-history oriented human. We Americans are so very “young”.

A side note….the juxtaposition of old and new within the city is intriguing, sometimes amusing, and ever present. Fascinating to see the old cathedrals…Christchurch, and St. Patrick’s Cathedral…and then note other churches and buildings of similar age and style now converted to businesses and sometimes residences. Traditional Gerogian brownstones are a much desired living space here, depicted by stepped front entrances and brightly hued painted doors (the color of the door to any particular brownstone cannot be changed without petitioning the city government for permission, so you’ll want to capture the own that has the door color you desire…and have roughly €8,000,000 at the ready for the purchase itself!). Other quick observations…Street lamps have shamrocks entwined in them, most residences share side walls, with small front “gardens” just large enough to accommodate a compact car and a row of flowers, and rear gardens often not much larger.

Last stop for the day was the Guiness Brewery, cleverly laid out with video kiosks simulcasting both old and current methods for each step of the brewing process and sharing all but the deepest secrets of how the brew is made. Well, even there you’ll learn that there is a specific yeast used in the fermenting process, with a back up supply locked away in a vault for safe keeping!

You can sample the roast barley that provides the color and a portion of the flavor (a bit like an a espresso bean), and at the end of the tour one can enjoy a pint of fresh Guiness and a 360° view of Dublin…which, of course, we did!

What’s left? Enough to keep you busy for weeks just in Dublin,…so stay tuned : )

One of the completed Ballymun HFH houses, similar to the one we’ll be working at Monday. A whimsical Irish tale “Into the West” , available on DVD was filmed in Ballymun, and gives a good look at the city sponsored high rise housing there, some of which is being replaced by homes like the ones built by HFH.






8-11-06 Staff on hand took Christine out to The Marketplace, a tapas bar near Stephens Green in Dublin City Center after work today to celebrate her new opportunity and honor her time with HFH. Not an "official" Irish pub (so I am told), but a fun night nonetheless Lots of work done this first week on a refurbishment schedule for the project I and/or Regis will be working while here, with an eye towards a “generic” version that can be used as a checklist and guide for future renovation projects….right up my alley. Working a garden finshing project Monday, calling to schedule assessments/bids for the project mid week, and on to a day long obligatory “Safe Pass” class Friday, then quite possibly heading up to Belfast for some hands on time with the Northern Ireland affiliate for the following week. A welcome opportunity in all ways…will see more of the country, have a chance to quiz the experts, and come back with more working knowledge to fill both volunteer supervisor and construction supervisor roles if need be. Right ON!

Updates from the Emerald Isle...

More as it comes...

8-9-06
Enjoying an unexpected “unsecured” net connection from the apartment, so am working like a fiend to catch up with on-line tasks, among them a multitude of posts to, er, keep you posted !

To Ballymun (north and west of Dublin Center) today to meet one of the first Dublin HFH homeowners there as we assessed Monday's garden project. Alsp began inventory of the HFH site office there, slated to be a refurb in the near future if another IVP can be located/recruited.

Have “phoned home” via e-ail to HFH mentors for resources to use as construction supervisor, as I am now being introduced (things changing rapidly!)….planning in the works to go to Northern Ireland and the Belfast affiliate for some realtime site experience and coaching so I can in turn schedule, bid, teach, and accomplish the refurb I’ve been inveited here to do, so fingers are crossed in anticipation that this will be possible before we begin here...things are VERY different in many ways!

At once challenging and exciting, like starting over in some respects, but with an array of skills and knowledge already in place.

Guestimated a refurb schedule based on what I know thus far, gathered still more info, and like the Energizer bunny, just keep going and going and going!

8-8-06
First official workday…into the city center to get the governmental okay to be here longer than 90 days, registered with the US Embassy, then successfully out to the HFH office via another bus route (whew).

Housed in a two bedroom apartment in Chapelizod (about 7 o'clock relative to Phoenix Park on a Dublin map)...with nice open LR, kitchen with tiny washer (an unexpected and most welcome surprise!), and full bath. Very simply furnished, a bit quirky (one tiny load of laundry takes 2 hours to wash, the refrigerator freezes everything, still mastering the boiler to achieve hot water for a.m. shower) and that said, very cool to have a space to myself “to come home to” for the first few days.

Unexpected “wrinkles” in the works…Sultan Latif, the 29 yr old Afgahni from the US slated to join me this Friday cancelled his trip due to unanticipated family health concerns An invitation has now been extended to a retired shop teacher and former Peace Corps volunteer. No idea whether or not he will be available on short notice, so hanging loose on that count with fingers crossed.

There remains the possibility that I will be solo here ….made more interesting in that there was/is no executive director in place at present, and the Project Manager contact I began with leaves next Wednesday for alternative employment, so will truly be operating on the fly….and it would seem that I may in fact be the leader of the band on site as well, as there may or may not be a construction person there with me. Plan to just keep asking questions and learning my way forward. Ever the adventure, yes?

Am gearing that day and/or weekend trips to Scotland, the UK, Rome, Prague, Paris, and Madrid are quite doable...apparently airfares can be very reasonable, so I may be seeing more than Ireland! The “work” schedule supports that possibility, as even volunteers are entitled to 5 days “off” per quarter…just a matter of working out the site schedule accordingly, which is my responsibility. Amazing! Definitely wanting to check out as much of Ireland as possible while here, with the other a tantalizing added bonus!

Other trivia and fun facts….

Contemplating but not yet convinced I’m prepared to take on “hiring a car” to explore. Almost all are manual, and given the opposite configuration, will be shifting left handed and driving on the “wrong” side of the road…and I thought the motorcycle was an exercise in hand eye coordination! Add in that a fair share of the drivers hoold licenses though they've yet to pass a driving test, and road trips take on an entirely new dimension! At least they're all small cars...imagine bumper cars in realtime for a feel of the traffic here...

License plates here designate what country you’re from, the first two digits indicate the year the car was made, the next letters indicate the Irish county you live in, the remaining numbers are random.

Vocabulary: boot versus trunk, crisp versus chip, chip versus fries, and many many more…FUN! Reminds me of being in college and listening to the cross country (versus cross cultural) differences in words and turn of phrase.

Pronunciations: Quay = key, d’s are soft with a “th” sound added in, emphasis is on different syllables than in the US, so paying attention is a must…have stifled dozens of “huh?”s already. Add in Irish in a multitude of dialects and some fairly fast talkers, and conversation gets lively and colorful very quickly!

8-7-06
Bank holiday today so no work…instead my first solo foray into city center via bus, caught a North Coast tour to Malahide Castle…occupied for 800 years by the same family, just vacated in 1975 …quite amazing to see...my first castle experience...

8-6-06
1030 church with Julie (her church is an offshoot of CORE), followed by a relocated indoor picnic at a member's home due to rain. A strecth from the promised scenic park and waterfall setting, but great company and conversation. One o the families there is going to Seattle in two weeks on holiday...small world, yes?

Habitat notes: Job is described as acting liaison between construction leaders and volunteers… Looking forward to meeting them and Sultan (he joind us this Friday) and getting started.

8-5-06
Ensconced for the weekend at the Royal Hotel in Dublin Bray. Slept late, started late (1000!); set to explore and answer questions about long distance calling, minutes, how to load the phone with minutes, how to access internet at internet café, and just walking. A “bank holiday” weekend here, so carnival atmosphere at water’s edge versus usual quiet beauty (or so I’m told).

Walked to Bray Head for 360 view of countryside about 1 mile seemingly straight up through the woods and then a rock face to get to the top, then back down to the walkway to Greystone along the sea (about 6 miles), back to Bray by Dublin Pass using the “rambler” bus pass for the first time, off the bus a distance from the town center to stroll my way back in (another 1.5 miles) and look at the houses and town from another perspective.



Multicultural area, with a variety of looks and languages. First impression: people here seem clear about themselves, who and how they are, and “wear” it accordingly, regardless of shape, size, etc. A comfortable space, and apt reminder to be who we are, regardless.

Looking forward to countryside time as the stay gathers steam….Dublin and surrounding areas though friendly feel close and crowded, and that said, also impart a laid back atmosphere much like Washington state “time”, i.e., not a lot of rushing about.

Habitat observations: Fences are stone or concrete. Refurbs are done with block, new construction is concrete or “timber” frame construction. Lots of bright colors used in exterior painting, particularly on the older buildings, very narrow stairways inside and out.

Vocabulary: Clamped versus towed, queue versus line….lots of soft “sh” sounds to finish words usually harder phonetically. Midges versus mosquitos. Dinner on Albert in Dublin Bray at an authentic pizza parlor called “Pizzas and Cream”….filling! Met with Julie from HFH and two of her friends, Elizabeth and Anna for a bona fide girls night out. Fun!

8-4-06
Arrived 0815 this morning in Dublin, with farms and associated livestock immediately adjacent to the runway, and noting already dual signage in English and Gaelic. For ABFers, first number noted…42 OPEN I am open to new opportunities. Pretty cool.

Picked up by Christine Healy, met office staff Jessica (IVP Volunteer Coordinator from US), Karen (GV Coordinator), Julie (Accountant). Remaining staff on leave, so will meet and greet as they return...

Went to HFH office, bank for euros, bus station, and Christine’s for a nap and lunch, back to the office for pick by Julie and on to Bray, south suburb of Dublin for a two day stay at the Royal Hotel in Bray. Apartment will be available Sunday, two bedroom with washer included (yay).

Impressions….most buildings in the city are attached to one another, as are most homes (duplex at minimum). Brick and concrete construction to withstand Irish climate. Colorful and classic. Much to learn in how to maneuver!

Especially for Habitat folks...Quizzing folks here already re building routines….concrete and brick to withstand wind and weather, and most dwellings are two stories and connected with one another, so those are the first changes. The plan is to start myself and Sultan out on refurbishment projects, and they have some very large New Hope type work coming up in 2007, so will be interesting to see how those plans evolve while here.

Properties are granted to the affiliate by the city council in Dublin; cost to build a two bedroom unit are $100-120,000 ($120-145,000 USD), so being granted the property makes it possible to build in an otherwise cost prohibitive market. The floor plans are chosen for the families based on need and availability.

“Gardens” (small yards) are not included, though occasionally the affiliate helps with that as well, and in fact, that will be a first project for me next week. Volunteer crew here number more women than men (so I am told), and Sultan and I are here as liaison between the construction staff and the volunteer teams….sounds familiar, and may become great additional training for a women’s build at some point in my future. Who knew? That’s a bit of what I’ve learned on my first day here. Will be in Bray for the weekend, then back Sunday to move into an apartment about a mile from the HFH office. Monday will be an exploration day, and Tuesday work begins in earnest, 5 days per week, most often Tues-Sat. There is some flexibility in scheduling to allow us the opportunity to explore the country here and there while in residence. I'll even earn 5 vacation days while here...amazing!

All are very excited to see me (feeling at once grateful and humble); they’ve had great success with the IV program to date; my prayer is that I will leave a continued legacy of success in my contributions here

Vocabulary….loo/toilet versus bathroom/restroom; boot versus trunk; dolly versus baby or little girl; Brilliant/grand/glorious versus awesome/amazing; overtake versus pass; skip versus dumpster...and the list keeps growing....reminds me a bit of word games as a kid!

July's end 'til 8-3-06

On the way....flew into Chicago en route to Dublin. Hosted by Ry and roommates and met 4-5 other friends of theirs (nice!) and spent a few days catching up with several friends, some I've not seen since 2001. Very cool.